Dental picks are one of the simplest tools used in fossil preparation, and also one of the most important. Many fossils, including most fossils preserved in chalk, can be entirely prepared with dental picks and glue. Dental picks are very easy to use, but must be used properly in order to avoid damaging the fossil. Here are some guidelines.

1. Selecting a pick. Use only straight picks. Most dental picks are bent, often in complex ways. Bent picks are useless for fossil preparation. Break bent picks before the first curve, and sharpen the remaining stump to a point. Also, try to select picks that have a point at only one end. It is sometimes necessary to press the handle of the pick with the palm of your hand. This is impossible, or at least very painful, with double-pointed picks. Remove one of the points and flatten its stump with a grinder.

2. Sharpening picks. Sharpen picks either to a point or to a chisel shape. The exact shape is a matter of taste, but try to avoid long, thin points. These tend to bend easily, and may penetrate matrix (the rock in which the fossil is embedded) without flaking it away, which makes it likely that you will damage the fossil.

3. Holding the fossil. It is important that the fossil does not move while you are working on it. Unless the fossil is fairly large, you will need to brace it somehow- either against some immovable object like the lip of a table or a wall, or with your hand. Be especially careful to brace the fossil on the corner farthest from you and on the opposite side from the hand you use to pick-the back left corner if you are right-handed and the back right corner if you are left-handed.

4. Holding the pick. Start by holding the pick exactly as you would hold a pen or pencil, not as you would a paintbrush. Brace the side of your hand against the surface of the fossil or, if the fossil is small, the table. It is very important to always have complete control over the tip of the pick. Never hold the pick more than about an inch from the tip. You may have a hard time gripping the narrow needle, especially if you have large hands. If you do you can shorten the tip so that you can grip the pick by the thicker handle, and/or wrap the handle and part of the tip with tape to make it fatter. If you are holding the pick correctly you should be able to press down with considerable force without any danger of the tip slipping.

5. Picking. The purpose of picking is to flake matrix from the fossil. This is possible because there is almost always a zone of weakness between the fossil and the matrix. If the matrix is free on at least one side, it will tend to separate cleanly from the fossil. If there is no zone of weakness between matrix and fossil, the fossil cannot be prepared with a dental pick.

Do not trust your instincts (at least not at first). Use the following rules:

A. When you are within half an inch of the fossil, always pick at right angles to, and toward, the surface of the fossil. This seems strange at first, but it ensures that you exploit the zone of weakness between fossil and matrix.

B. Never scrape the matrix or the surface of the fossil. This is the single most common mistake in fossil preparation, and one that invariably causes damage because it is impossible to tell if you are scraping matrix or fossil.

C. Press the pick toward the fossil, but avoid actually touching the fossil with the tip of the pick. The matrix will tend to flake away from the fossil before the pick reaches it. You should have enough control over the pick to stop the tip within a millimeter of the surface of the fossil.

D. Remember that the fossil can have complicated and unexpected shapes. If it is possible to identify the fossil before you begin preparation, study some good illustrations if it beforehand so you have an idea of what to expect. But keep in mind that the fossil may be deformed in unpredictable ways, and that there may be other fossils hidden beneath the surface.

E. Always work from exposed parts of the fossil to unexposed parts. As long as part of a fossil is visible on the surface do not "explore" for fossils under other areas of matrix.

F. Always uncover the fossil in an organized way. Try to avoid working on more than one part of a fossil at one time. Never try to remove from matrix unless it is entirely prepared on one side first. If you have any doubt about whether it is physically possible to remove a fossil, don't try. Just expose it on one side. Never tunnel under a fossil. Never dig a deep trench down to a fossil. Clear a swath of matrix that is at least 5 times wider than the fossil.

G. Keep the fossil clean when you are working on it. The best way of doing this is to gently blow away and dust and rock chips you create during preparation. You can also use a very soft paintbrush. But keep an eye out for damage. Many fossils are so fragile that the even a slight puff of air can make them fall apart. If you notice such damage, stop and stabilize the fossil.

H. Water will often soften matrix and make it easier to remove. Apply water sparingly with a paint brush, a spray bottle, or a dental pick.. Watch carefully for damage, and stop using water if you notice any. Remember that water acts like glue. Wet fossils may become very fragile or crumble as they dry. When you return to a fossil that has dried check to see if it needs to be stabilized before you start preparing it again. Also remember that you cannot use superglue on a wet fossil.

6. Stabilizing fossils. This is done with glue, most commonly cyanoacylate ("superglue") or polyvinyl butyral (Butvar) dissolved in acetone. Superglue works best with dental picks. Superglue comes in a variety of consistencies, or viscosities, ranging from something similar to honey, to something runnier than water. The runny kind will quickly soak into all of the cracks on a fossil, in is ideal of stabilizing newly exposed surfaces. Unfortunately this kind of glue will also soak into matrix and bind it to a fossil, so try to avoid getting any on matrix. It is especially important to avoid getting glue on the contact between matrix and fossil, as this will destroy the zone of weakness between the two, and make the fossil difficult to prepare. Apply the superglue in tiny amounts away from the matrix. An easy way of doing this is to put a drop of superglue on a piece of cardboard (such as the backing on a pad of paper) and use your dental pick to scrape up a few glue soaked paper fibers. Before the glue hardens press these fibers against the exposed surface of the fossil. Capillary action will draw the glue into the fossil, where it will cement and seal any tiny fractures. Superglue hardens quickly (usually within 30 seconds), especially in humid environments, but makes sure no unhardened superglue remains on the surface of the fossil before you start picking again. If you do not, dust and fragments of matrix may become embedded in the fresh glue and obscure the surface of the fossil.

Do not use superglue or Butvar on a wet fossil. As neither of these substances can mix with water, they will not penetrate wet fossils, but will just pool up on the surface and make a mess.

Superglue also sets immediately on contact with water. This setting reaction is extremely exothermic, and can be violent. If you spill superglue on your skin (and you will) wipe it off immediately with a dry towel. Do not try to rinse if off with water, especially if you have spilled a large amount. However, if your skin gets hot after wiping the glue off, use cold water to cool it off and prevent burns. Superglue burns are not likely to be serious but they can be painful. On the plus side, superglue can be used as a suture to close wounds in an emergency.

Despite its reputation superglue is not particularly strong. If you glue your finger to a dental pick (a very common occurrence) you should be ale to peel you finger off without too much difficulty. If you glue you whole hand to the pick, try dissolving the glue with nail polish remover or plain acetone.